Innovation never gets old to me. For years, I evaluated my surfing by what I saw in magazines and in the water. What was being done by others. I never really paid attention to what I enjoyed most about surfing; small waves and flow. If I had, I would have been riding a long board years ago.
Now that I'm older and the ocean is a full two hours from where I live, my opportunity for time in the water is far less than it once was. The impact is all good; I now think about and prepare for surfing far more than I ever did (both mentally and physically) and I've moved to a longer board (a 7'6" fun board) forced by the small summer surf on the east coast. Most importantly, I love surfing again.
Derek Hynd has spent a lifetime innovating. His willingness to dance to a very different drummer tells us more than just that it's OK to think for ourselves. Derek's efforts urge us to let our dreams lead us.
